Mordanting Recipe

helpful ratios

  • 425 g = 1 lb of fabric

equipment needed

  • stainless steel pot - will be used strictly for dyeing, should not be used for food
  • stainless steel mixing spoon
  • metric scale
  • stainless steel teaspoon
  • stainless steel tablespoon

ingredients

  • aluminum acetate/aluminum sulfate
  • tannin of your choice (clear base = gallnut) (yellow base = myrobalan, pomegranate, black oak, fustic) (brown base = cutch, mimosa, quebracho, tea leaves)
  • chalk/calcium carbonate

process - for this recipe, it will take a bit of researching to see what materials you're okay with using and what you would like the colorfastness to be. 

for cotton/linen fabric

  • mordant
    • if using tannins + aluminum acetate + chalk
      • tannin bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put the % WOF advised by the brand of the tannin
        • put the fabric in the pot
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot for 1 hr
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 120°F
            • hold the water at that temperature for 1 hr
            • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
            • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot overnight
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 120°F
            • turn off the heat
            • put a lid on the pot to ensure nothing goes inside
            • let the fabric sit in the pot overnight, then rinse in cool water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
      • aluminum acetate bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 5 - 10% WOF of aluminum acetate in the pot
        • put the fabric in the pot
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot for 1 hr
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • hold the water at that temperature for 1 hr
            • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
            • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot overnight
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • turn off the heat
            • put a lid on the pot to ensure nothing goes inside
            • let the fabric sit in the pot overnight, then rinse in cool water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
      • chalk bath
        • fill up a bucket with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 5% WOF of chalk in the bucket
        • put the fabric in the bucket
        • let the fabric sit in the solution for 30 minutes
        • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
    • if using aluminum acetate + chalk
      • aluminum acetate bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 5 - 10% % WOF of aluminum acetate in the pot
        • put the fabric in the pot
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot for 1 hr
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • hold the water at that temperature for 1 hr
            • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
            • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot overnight
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • turn off the heat
            • put a lid on the pot to ensure nothing goes inside
            • let the fabric sit in the pot overnight, then rinse in cool water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
      • chalk bath
        • fill up a bucket with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 5% WOF of chalk in the bucket
        • put the fabric in the bucket
        • let the fabric sit in the solution for 30 minutes
        • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
    • if using aluminum acetate
      • aluminum acetate bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 5 - 10% % WOF of aluminum acetate in the pot
        • put the fabric in the pot
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot for 1 hr
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • hold the water at that temperature for 1 hr
            • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
            • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot overnight
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • turn off the heat
            • put a lid on the pot to ensure nothing goes inside
            • let the fabric sit in the pot overnight, then rinse in cool water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
    • if using aluminum sulfate + soda ash
      • aluminum sulfate + soda ash bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 12% aluminum sulfate and 15% soda ash into the pot
        • put the fabric in the pot
        • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
        • hold the water at that temperature for 1 - 2 hrs
        • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
        • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
    • is using tannin + aluminum sulfate
      • tannin bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put the % WOF advised by the brand of the tannin
        • put the fabric in the pot
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot for 1 hr
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • hold the water at that temperature for 1 hr
            • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
            • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
          • if soaking the fabric in the pot overnight
            • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
            • turn off the heat
            • put a lid on the pot to ensure nothing goes inside
            • let the fabric sit in the pot overnight, then rinse in cool water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
      • aluminum sulfate bath
        • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
        • put 12% aluminum sulfate and 15% soda ash into the pot
        • put the fabric in the pot
        • heat on a stove top to bring it up to 140°F - 180°F
        • hold the water at that temperature for 1 - 2 hrs
        • take the pot off the heat and take the fabric out
        • rinse the fabric in warm water (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the soak temperature)
  • after mordanting, dry the fabric and store it to dye in the future, or keep the fabric damp in a sealed bag in the fridge if dyeing soon

for wool/silk fabric??

  • mordanting
    • fill up a pot with hot water (not boiling)
    • put 10 - 20% aluminum sulfate into the pot
    • put the fabric in the pot
      • for wool
        • mordant the fabric at 180°F for 1 hour
        • let the mixture cool with the fabric in it, then rinse it
      • for silk
        • mordant at 120°F for 1 hour
        • let the mixture cool with the fabric in it, then rinse it (avoid shocking the fabric with a rinse temperature different from the cooled soak temperature)

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